Horse Tack Plus

Buying a Horse/Prepurchase Exams

horsetackplus — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:52:03 +0000

Buying a Horse/Prepurchase Exams

by: Harry Werner, VMD

June 01 1999, Article # 2799

Q:I’m in the market for my first horse. I’ve seen people at my barn buy horses, and they always have a veterinarian check the horse over before making the purchase. What exactly does the veterinarian check for and why is this so important?

A: For the sake of space and the amount of information available on this topic, this article will deal with the private sale of horses. The term "private sales" refers to a horse being sold by a seller to a buyer, and not to horses which are bought at auction. Buyers who buy horses at auction have concerns that will not be addressed in this article.

There will be at least three parties involved in the sale of a horse. The primary parties involved include the buyer, the seller, and the horse. However, in some cases there will be secondary parties involved which can include, but are not limited to, an agent for the buyer, an agent for the seller, a trainer, insurance agencies, or other advisors of some sort.

In a private sale, the veterinarian hired by the buyer to conduct the purchase exam may ask for full disclosure of the horse’s medical records and the name of the horse’s veterinarian. This information should be made readily available to the veterinarian hired to conduct the purchase exam.

One thing to keep clear is that the veterinarian always is working for the buyer and is embarking on a fact-finding mission on his client’s behalf. The role of the veterinarian is not to give the buyer a "yes" or "no" answer as to whether or not to buy the horse, but rather to present facts about the horse which will enable the buyer to make an informed decision as to whether the horse has any physical abnormalities that may preclude its intended use.

A reasonably provocative physical exam will be administered to the horse by the veterinarian hired by the buyer. The tests will evaluate the horse’s systems that are readily available for examination. These exams may include, but are not limited to, a neurological exam, heart and lungs examined at rest and after work, joint flexion tests, oral exam, evaluation of the gaits, exam with hoof testers, etc. Once the exams are complete, the buyer will be provided with a report of the results of the exams.

An important aspect of the whole process is keeping the channels of communication open among the buyer, seller, and the veterinarian. It is important that the client ask questions if he or she does not understand terminology or the significance of a finding. By asking questions, the client will be an informed buyer. Communication begins when the client makes the initial call to the veterinarian to hire him/her to conduct the purchase exam. Communication ends with a report by the veterinarian at the conclusion of the exam.

Clients need to understand the main point of a purchase exam is to inform them as buyers of the health status of a particular horse. To arrive at this information, the veterinarian may use imaging techniques or modalities such as X ray, scintigraphy, ultrasound, and thermography; electrocardiograms; and clinical laboratory studies that could include a Coggins test, blood count, fecal tests, and drug tests to detect mood affectors or pain killers.

The buyer needs to be aware that no drug testing is 100% accurate. There always will be room for error. However, with quality laboratories processing the results and with proper handling of the samples, accurate results can be expected in most cases.

The buyer must understand that a purchase exam is not a warranty or guarantee for the horse or a pass/fail exam, but rather information that allows the buyer to make an informed decision before making a purchase. Another common mistake made by buyers is that they look at the purchase exam as an appraisal of the horse’s monetary value. Determining the monetary value of the horse is the responsibility of the buyer or the buyer’s agent, not the veterinarian. The purchase exam is also not to be taken as an exam for the horse’s athletic ability to perform a given job–that is the trainer’s job.

The veterinarian’s job is to interpret the results of the tests and to present facts to the buyer in terms that the buyer can understand. The veterinarian also should answer questions from his client that are within the limits of veterinary medicine.

Another important fact that buyers need to keep in mind is that a purchase exam is not a breeding soundness exam. In a purchase exam, the veterinarian can’t evaluate the mare or stallion’s reproductive status. Assumptions regarding fertility and, in mares, pregnancy can’t be made without more specialized examination procedures. With geldings this is not an issue, but with stallions or mares, breeding soundness can become an issue. If the horse is being purchased for breeding purposes, then a breeding soundness exam should be conducted. (For further information on prepurchase exams see our June issue article.)

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Toxic Trees: Keep Your Horses Safe at Pasture

horsetackplus — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 16:37:53 +0000

Toxic Trees: Keep Your Horses Safe at Pasture

By:

Joanne Meszoly for EQUUS magazine.

As great as trees are, there are a few situations where horses and trees definitely don’t mix. Make sure your horse pastures don’t have these toxic trees.

As praiseworthy as trees are, there are a few situations where horses and trees don’t mix. In some cases, fruit- or nut-bearing trees contribute to colics when horses gorge on their produce. In others, falling branches or uprooted trees injure nearby horses. But the gravest dangers arise with the few tree species that are toxic enough to sicken or kill horses.

Of the non-ornamental native trees, the most deserving of the skull-and-crossbones warning are those that produce cyanide in their wilted leaves. Cyanide suffocates animals by blocking oxygen transport via the red blood cells. The red maple (Acer rubrum) is one such tree whose leaves are harmless most of the year until wind damage or seasonal change causes them to fall from the tree and wilt. Red maple leaves have serrated edges and can turn either red or yellow in ghe fall. "There are other trees that shed red leaves in the fall, but the red maple has some distinctive features," says Anthony Knight, BVSc, MRCVS, who specializes in toxic trees and plants at Colorado State University. "The underside of the red maple leaf tends to be silvery in color." Signs of poisoning, including lethargy, discolored urine and darkened gums, may not appear for four days.

Equally toxic are cherry (black cherry, chokecherry, and fire cherry) peach and plum trees, all members of the Prunus species. These leaves also produce cyanide when wilted, affecting horses within a few hours of ingestion.

To be safe, remove these deadly trees or relocate horses away from pastures or paddocks bordered by or containing them. In general, horses are not likely to eat leaves or any other tree parts unless they are quite hungry. However, when curiosity or boredom spurs exploratory bites, the horse may ingest enough of the deadlier species to do harm.

The following trees have no place in horsekeeping areas because of their toxicity or potential for causing digestive distress. They are listed in order of the risk they pose to horses, starting with the most hazardous:

Yew (taxus sp.)
Oleander (nerium oleander)
Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
Cherry trees and relatives (prunus sp.)
Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
Cherry trees and relatives (prunus sp.)
Black Walnut (juglans nigra)
Black Locust (robinia pseudoacacia)
Horse Chestnut, Buckeyes (aesculus hippocastanum)
Oak trees, acorns(quercus sp.)
Russian olive, also known as oleaster (elaegnus angustifolia)

For more information on toxic trees, including detailed descriptions and photographs, visit the Colorado State University website

This article first appeared in EQUUS magazine.

Hot Summer Tip: Pay Attention to Horse’s Physical State

horsetackplus — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 17:00:47 +0000

Hot Summer Tip: Pay Attention to Horse’s Physical State

by: Oklahoma State University
August 11 2010, Article # 16805

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Summertime temperatures are running wild across the United States this week, with Oklahoma hitting approximately 105°F, which is leading a number of equine owners to study their horse’s heat tolerance with more than a little caution.

"Other than a general lack of enthusiasm and desire to move to shade, a normal well-acclimated horse should be able to handle Oklahoma’s heat and humidity with little concern," said Dave Freeman, Oklahoma State University Cooperative Extension equine specialist. "However, the need for owner awareness increases when a horse begins to exercise and engage in more strenuous physical activity."

A horse’s body temperature–if it is normally around 101°F–will increase a few degrees with exercise in hot summertime environments. If not exercising, a horse’s heart rate should be around 40 beats per minute; respiration rate 12-20 breaths per minute, though this is variable; and body temperature around 101-102°F.

Maximum heart rates during heavy exercise may reach 200 beats per minute or more, and respiration rates can triple or race even higher. Intense levels of work can raise a horse’s rectal temperatures to 104°F, plus or minus, which for any substantial length of time will be harmful.

"This means that it is vital that the horse has the ability to decrease excessive body temperature quickly during recovery," Freeman said. "Otherwise, heat stress becomes a big concern."

Under most conditions, equine owners should expect a horse’s major physiological measurements–heart rate, body temperature and respiration rate–to decrease dramatically within 5 minutes following heavy or prolonged exercise.

"A horse should reach characteristic ‘resting values’ within 10-15 minutes at the longest," he said. "If the horse is really ‘hot’ from exercising, recovery is best done by hand, walking the animal in an area with good air flow and away from direct sunlight."

Freeman explains that cooling the horse’s body with water is recommended as long as the equine’s heart and respiration rates have dropped to near ‘resting value’ levels, and possibly even sooner under critical heat stress conditions.

"Humidity and air flow causes evaporation; as a result, your horse may sweat more than you think," Freeman said. "That makes it especially important to pay attention to the animal’s physical clues–its respiration rate, heart rate and body temperature–during times when your horse may be at risk from the heat."

If a horse does not appear to be producing sufficient sweat, the owner should contact his or her local veterinarian, who can quantify the animal’s sweat rate and take appropriate action.

"Veterinarians have evaluation methods in which drugs are administered that cause a horse to sweat, and might even use absorbent pads to quantify losses," Freeman said.

Anhidrosis, or the inability to sweat, is a problem with a small percentage of horses, but one that should be diagnosed accurately so that an equine owner is able to determine the extent of use to which the horse can be put during periods of excessive summertime temperatures.

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Equine Emotions

horsetackplus — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 16:18:40 +0000

Equine Emotions

The question of whether animals have feelings has perplexed philosophers and animal behaviorists for centuries.

By Brenda Forsythe Sappington, M.S., Ph.D.

Your mare always seems happy to see you when you arrive at the barn — nickering loudly and often galloping away from her playmates to meet you at the paddock gate when you call her name. Although it makes you feel good inside that she’s so eager to greet you, a question keeps popping into your head: Does she really have emotional attachment to me or does she just equate my presence with all those free, crisp carrots?

The question of whether animals have feelings has perplexed philosophers and animal behaviorists for centuries. Philosopher Rene Descartes once argued that because animals could not be proven to have feelings, they should be regarded as automatons that acted mechanically. A few centuries later, George John Romanes (a student of Charles Darwin) argued for "injective knowledge," or that you could infer what was going on inside someone’s mind by observing their reactions to particular circumstances and by knowing how another feels in the same situation. For example, if one animal experiences fear in a dangerous situation and acts a certain way as a result, you could presume that another animal acting similarly in the same situation is also experiencing fear.

The debate continues today. Behavior science is no longer subjective, and when studying animals, scientists have to observe, quantify and explain specific aspects of their behavior without adding personal interpretation. You see, two different people can look at the same equine behavior but come up with two entirely different interpretations, just because of their own life experiences and world views. For example, I used to exercise horses for someone who believed that animals did not have emotional lives. We would hack our horses together, spending hours on the trail debating the motivations behind the things our horses did. I’d argue passionately about how horses have their own unique motivations for their actions, but he’d come back with how that same behavior could occur automatically, without emotional drive. Neither point of view could be proved right, but we each believed in the truth of our points of view.

That is both the beauty and the shortcoming of behavior science. Only motivations that can be proved are legitimate explanations for behavior within the scientific method. Placing emotional responses on animals may not be wrong, but it cannot be proved to be right, either. For this reason, ascribing human emotion to animal behavior is considered to be unscientific and is generally not done. Most of what animals do gets explained by two basic and proven animal drives: to stay alive at any given moment (which ultimately results in individual survival), and breed and nurture offspring (which ultimately results in survival of the species). Seeking food, water, shelter and mates can all be accounted for by the drives to survive and reproduce.

On the other hand, if a horse does something that seems like a unique — maybe even emotional — behavior, it’s still pretty difficult to prove his motives. Because we don’t whinny and nicker, and because they haven’t quite mastered English, Spanish or German, horses are not able to tell us their reasons for their actions in absolute terms. Instead, we have to watch what they do and interpret it as best we can. In my own horses, I’ve observed behavior at times that does not seem to fit an explanation by the two basic drives. For example, one of my mares would act distressed and stop eating whenever her pasturemate was removed for long time periods. Refusing to eat was not exactly good for her personal survival, nor did it do anything to improve her reproductive fitness. To me, the behavior seemed more complicated and personal than "drive" behavior, something more along the lines of how we feel when we’re depressed and lonely.

In a similar vein, some of the research being done with primates is also indicating capacity for emotion. Many of you are familiar with Koko, the gorilla who learned sign language with Dr. Francine Patterson and had a seemingly loving relationship with her orange tabby kitten, Ball. She has been known to express herself as "sad" in relation to apparently distressing events, or to express sentiments such as "love" with respect to people and other animals. Granted, these expressions might seem simplistic when you compare them to our human feelings, but keep in mind that the capacity of these nonhuman animals to learn such human "language" is equally basic, similar to that of very young children. While we have detailed means for expressing every little detail about how we feel, animals don’t. So it is possible that their emotional lives might be much more basic than ours, felt strongly and simply, in the moment and without great complexity.

As a result of such studies, the evidence is building that primates are capable of feelings similar to ours. If primates (not including us) show a capacity to express specific emotions using the language we teach them to communicate with, then might it also be possible that other nonhuman animals, such as horses, also experience similar feelings?

Let’s assume for a moment that horses do have the capacity for emotions. What are the advantages to this? The disadvantages?

One important advantage is that it helps in horse training by giving us a familiar framework for relating to horses. It is easier to understand their behavior if it can be related to our own. If the horse acts in a way that seems frightened, we can assume he is afraid of whatever is happening around him and can handle the situation accordingly.

Another advantage of assuming our horses have the capacity to feel is that we must then accord appropriate respect to them. We must keep in mind their emotional well-being, which is not necessary if we think of them as lacking feelings. Thinking of horses as having emotions requires us to have a certain amount of consideration which we might not otherwise feel like we need to provide. The end result is a higher and more humane standard of care for horses, benefiting horses and society in general.

On the minus side, where do we draw the line? If our horse kicks for no apparent reason, do we assume that horses know the difference between "right" and "wrong," and hold him accountable for behaving without conscience? Because he has emotional capacity, does he also have a code of morality? I personally equate a companion animal’s emotional development to that of very young children, in whom emotions are mainly self-serving and in whom morality is absent. Even in humans, knowing right from wrong is not innate but must be taught.

Another disadvantage is that it gives owners an excuse for their horses’ bad behavior. It can be used as a crutch to explain away things that should be addressed. For example, a horse that bites a passerby could be excused as "unhappy" or "having a bad day."

It is possible that we could simply be wrong about ascribing the capacity for some level of emotional life to animals. But considering what can be gained in our partnerships with animals by giving them credit for possessing at least rudimentary emotions, what will we lose if we aren’t right? Considering our physical similarities to nonhuman animals in terms of the "hard-wiring" needed for emotional capability — that is, possessing brains, nerves and pain receptors — I find it extremely unlikely that emotional capacity is uniquely present only in the human animal.

Just because science is struggling with this issue, you as an owner don’t need to be. You and I know beyond a doubt that our animals are individuals of personality and character — and eventually science will catch up and find ways to measure this emotional aspect of their behavior. It might be that horses only have the emotional capacity of very young children, but that is still a powerful emotional life worth of our consideration. When we as humans disregard our horse’s emotional well-being, it leads to a host of problems that can be avoided simply by just giving credit where it’s due.

Further Reading
Recognizing Learning Ability in Horses

Horses and The Law

horsetackplus — Sun, 15 Aug 2010 23:40:33 +0000

Are We The Invasive Species?

The Bureau of Land Management—or "mismanagement," depending on your point of view—has come under heavy fire recently for a series of controversial "gathers" of wild horses. (The semantics of the BLM operations are interesting. Calling the roundups "gathers" conjures up a genteel process and presumably does not invoke troublesome images of wild horse herds, foals included, being driven across miles of range in 100-degree heat by helicopters.)

A flurry of lawsuits and tons of adverse publicity failed to stop the roundups, which so far have resulted in the deaths of some two dozen mustangs.

Coasting along under the horse welfare radar, to this point at least, is a controversial plan to remove all the wild horses from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge in northern Nevada and southern Oregon. According to the National Wildlife Refuge System ("NWRS"), the wild horse population in the Sheldon Refuge represents an "exotic invasive species" that is destabilizing the refuge ecosystem by destroying native grasses and plants, degrading the water supply, and contributing to soil erosion. The Sheldon Refuge was established during the 1930s and includes more than 500,000 acres. It was developed to preserve the natural habitat for pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, sage grouse, mule deer and "other species of the sagebrush steppe ecosystem."

Paul Steblein, project director at the Sheldon Refuge, briefed Congress recently on the removal plan. According to Steblein, the National Wildlife Refuge System wants to remove all the wild horses from the refuge over the next five to 15 years. The removed horses would be either adopted out or, if necessary, auctioned to the highest bidder. Steblein said that the refuge currently "gathers" 350-400 wild horses every year, adopting out roughly half of them and returning the others to the refuge after sterilization procedures. Even so, according to NWRS, more than 800 horses remain at the Sheldon Refuge.

Ironically, NWRS cites the efforts of the BLM as one of the reasons that wild horse populations in the West are not threatened and are, in fact, increasing.

A draft environmental impact statement is scheduled for release in September, and NWRS says it will solicit public comments on the proposed wild horse removal. A similar plan to de-horse the Sheldon Refuge was abandoned in 2007 in the face of public opposition and stinging criticism from Congressman Nick Rahall II, Chair of the House Committee on Natural Resources.

According to the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, an "exotic, invasive species" is "any species . . . not native to that ecosystem, and whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health."

That definition arguably covers much of the wild horse population in the West, assuming that they are descendants of horses introduced to North American during the Spanish conquest. (There is research indicating that today’s wild horses are genetically similar to native horses that died out at the end of the Pleistocene, however, making them actually a native species that was re-introduced by the Spanish.)

Stretched to its logical conclusion, the definition of "exotic, invasive species" also includes us—people. With the exception of Native Americans, who were here first and are called Native Americans for a reason, we are all exotic and invasive. The environmental harm wreaked by us is obvious.

Maybe it’s time to pack our bags and get out.

Happy Birthday to Me!

On a personal note, Horses and the Law is now officially a yearling. The goal when we started the blog last August was to examine current events in the horse world in a legal context. If we’ve been successful in that endeavor, let us know. If not, let us know. Thanks for reading and thanks for your comments.

How to Make A Portable First-Aid Kit

horsetackplus — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:57:56 +0000

How to Make A Portable First-Aid Kit

by: Kentucky Horse Council
August 08 2010, Article # 16787

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Every horse owner should have an equine first-aid kit in their barn and trailer. There are a variety of equine first-aid kits commercially available, ranging from less than $50 to more than $500. While the expensive kits offer a great deal of diverse treatment options, most horse owners can get by with a more affordable homemade kit for travel.

A few things required for an equine first-aid kit: VetWrap, triple antibiotic ointment, disposable diapers, Betadine, and wound care ointment.

The Bucket
The first step in making your own portable first-aid kit is locating a suitable bucket. A 5 gallon bucket with a snap on lid is the best option. If you don’t have a good bucket (with a lid) you may be able to get one from any of several community locations. Many delis, bakeries, and other food producing companies buy supplies (like pickles, frosting, and filling) by the bucket. When the contents of those buckets are used the facility is left with disposal. When you ask for a bucket you may want to specify the size (5 gallons) and that it have a lid. Smaller buckets may also be available and they can be useful for other things. If you cannot find a free bucket you should be able to buy one from a local feed, supply, or tack store.

The bucket serves two purposes: 1. It is a container to hold your first-aid kit items together and keep them clean; 2. It can be emptied and used as a bucket for first-aid purposes like washing wounds. Before you begin assembling your first-aid kit, thoroughly clean and dry your bucket. There should be no residue, lingering scent, or moisture in the bucket.

Filling the Bucket
Supplies for your portable first-aid kit should be carefully selected to fit inside the bucket. Liquid and gel topical medications can be transferred from larger containers into smaller leak proof applicators. Leave the larger containers at home where you have more storage room. Travel shampoo containers work well for both liquids and gels. Small size Tupperware or Rubbermaid type food containers are also handy for holding more solid compounds, and organizing supplies.

Dry Supplies You’ll Need:

16" Combine Bandage
4 – 3×4" Non-stick Telfa Pads
Vetwrap
5 – Wooden Tongue Depressors *
4 – 10 cc. Syringes **
4×4" Gauze
Epsom Salt
Thermometer
Stethoscope
Scissors
Tweezers/Forceps
Duct Tape
4 – Disposable Diapers ***
Gloves
Clean, Small Towel(s)
Hand Sanitizer
2- 6" Sections of Rubber Tubing ****
Small Flashlight

Wet Supplies You’ll Need:

Alcohol Preps OR 4×4" Gauze in a container with ample Rubbing Alcohol
Betadine
Dawn Dish Soap OR Betadine Scrub OR Chlorhexidine Scrub
Triple Antibiotic Ointment
1 Gallon Bottled Water
Antiseptic Wound Spray

You should talk to your veterinarian about other prescription medications to include in your portable first-aid kit like anti-inflammatories, analgesics, and tranquilizers. Some prescription medication may require special handling and storage and might have to housed in a location other than your handy first-aid bucket. Once the bucket is filled just snap on the lid and you are ready. As you deplete supplies from the kit simply replace them from your barn supply. It is important that you not only carry these items, but also know how to use them. To learn more about providing first-aid care for your horse, talk to your veterinarian or attend a training conducted by a veterinarian.

*Tongue depressors can be used to apply topical medication without contaminating the wound or the medication.

**You probably noticed that this list includes syringes but not needles. For a basic first-aid kit, without any injectable medication, you don’t need needles. The syringes can be used to flush wounds. A 10 cc syringe is especially nice as you can draw up 2 cc of Betadine and then fill the remainder of the syringe with water for safe flushing of punctures and other open wounds.

***Diapers work great for packing hooves and they are very absorbent and can also be used to staunch the blood flow from a seeping wound.

****Rubber tubing can be inserted into the horse’s nostril and secured, to keep the horse’s airway open in the event of snakebite, excessive bee stings, or other bites that cause severe swelling of the face.

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Physical Therapy and Massage For Horses

horsetackplus — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 19:14:36 +0000

Physical Therapy and Massage For Horses by Bob

in Other (submitted 2010-08-07)

Horses are companion animals, workers and athletes. As such, they suffer from many of the identical soft tissue injury afflicting humans. When disaster strikes, people call the Veterinarian. In some instances, in addition to traditional treatment, a vet could suggest therapeutic massage.
Veterinary Massage could be a kind of physical therapy and massage. In application to horse, it may be called Equine Massage. It is a comparatively new field of massage therapy. There are now numerous varieties and schools. You’ll visit such sites on Equitouch, Tellington Bit, Equinergy, In Hand Equine Massage and Total Equine Massage.
There are now faculties that solely teach Equine Massage. There is additionally the Equine Sports Massage Association.
There are varied approaches to Equine Massage Therapy. Many base themselves on various techniques derived from Classic or Swedish Massage Therapy. Some mix the 5-basic techniques of Swedish Massage Therapy with alternative New Age or trendy innovations. Therefore, Equine Massage Therapy may be a hybrid.
The foremost basic type of Equine Massage Therapy is Equine Sports Massage. Sports Massage could be a variation and growth of Swedish Massage. It embody the 5 techniques of Effleurage, Petrissage, Tapotement, Frictions and Vibration. The addition to Sports Massage is Stretching and Vary of Motion, and a pair of unique techniques. These are Rhythmic Compressions and Active Assistive Release.
Equine Sports Massage is for racehorses and other high performance equine. It’s non-invasive. It uses massage as a method and a tool to assist with the performance and maintenance of the animal. The techniques embody specific categories. You’ve got pre-race and post-race massage. A massage practitioner conjointly employs Equine Massage for treatment, coaching and maintenance practices. This is the identical for Sports Massage for human athletes.
As with Human Sports Massage, Equine Sports Massage utilizes specific techniques for the different settings and times of massage. A practitioner massages the horse on a regular basis to maintain the health of the animal. At the identical time, therapeutic massage acts as a diagnostic or warning system. It detects numerous changes in the muscles, tendons and skeletal structure. A massage will note possible issues and take preventative measures. It is the reason why many trainers prepare for a horse massage before and after a coaching exercise.
Massage will additionally act as a live to enhance performance before the race. A massage previous to a racing event can help stimulate the horse to maximise its physical and mental performance. A massage following the event detects any possible issues, relieves tension and prevents muscle fatigue.
Treatment Massage is a approach to help speed up the healing process. Combining massage with medical treatment helps to decease recovery time from injury. It relaxes the horse, eases spasm, reduces pain and will increase the flow of blood and lymph circulation.
There are other varieties of Equine Massage besides Equine Sport Massage. Some are holistic; others are not. Some achieve the same effects as Equine Sports Massage but specialise in achieving a bonding between rider and horse. On one hand, the purpose is to assist heal, relax and improve the general well being of the animal. On the other hand, it is to increase or improve the rapport between a horse and its rider, a horse and its companion.
Some practitioners use other types of Complementary and Various Medicine (CAM) with or on a horse. These embody a type of non-touching massage. Reiki healing is a sort of massage some therapists employ to assist balance the energy flowing through a person’s channels. If the channels or meridians become blocked, the energy decreases. Someone becomes unbalanced. This results in illness and disease. Reiki realigns and balances the energy to begin the healing process. It will so while not physically touching the body.
Some people do perform Reiki on animals. Practitioners on horses want to think about any attainable variables. Size does matter if you’re a small therapist handling a massive animal. Some props, like a stool, might be necessary. Props and other styles of massage tools are easily out there from provide stores. You can purchase various tools and items of apparatus to form your job simpler. You can also ignore the extras and work with your hands. By the method, massaging a horse can take an hour.

About the Author

Bob has been writing articles online for nearly 2 years now. Not only does this author specialize in massage,you can also check out his latest website about: White Wedding Bouquet which reviews and lists the best White Wedding Flower

Seven Fencing Mistakes

horsetackplus — Fri, 06 Aug 2010 15:31:03 +0000

Seven Fencing Mistakes

Keep your horse safe. Watch out for these common fencing mistakes.

By Holly Werner

One of the most important facets of horsekeeping is safe fencing. A safe fence prevents a horse from getting loose or tangled up and injuring himself. Since horses tend to be very curious creatures, it’s a safe bet that they will spend some time carefully inspecting and making contact with whatever fence is in place, so it must be specifically designed to safely contain horses. Here are seven common fencing mistakes.

1. Barbed Wire
Many people buy farms that were previously set up for cattle and fail to switch out the barbed wire fence. However, it is only a matter of time until horses will slash themselves on it. Even docile older horses can easily fall prey at any time to a "curiosity accident." If you want to avoid giant vet bills and/or a horse that may become permanently crippled, replace barbed wire fence immediately before putting a horse out in the field. Even if just the top strand of the fence is barbed wire, replace it, as it can still just as easily harm a horse.

Large square wire fence and barbed wire are inappropriate materials for enclosing horse pastures.

3. Wire strand fence
Wire strand fencing can also slice up a horse that spooks and runs into it. Polymer-coated wire is a much safer choice, and can be electrified as a further means of keeping horses away from it.

4. Uncapped T-posts
Metal T-posts are a wonderful, inexpensive way to set up a perimeter for electric fencing (tape webbing, electric rope, et cetera). But an absolute must for T-posts is the inexpensive T-post cap, a plastic or vinyl sleeve that fits over the post. The jagged metal edge of the plain T-post is razor-sharp, and can slice or even impale a horse that has a run-in with it. It’s always worth a few extra cents per post to cap off these sharp edges.

T-posts are a secure, inexpensive way to set up fencing, but without caps they have the potential to injure horses.

5. Electric failure
Electric fence must be checked frequently for adequate charge. Any grass or weeds that grow too tall and touch the fence can weaken the charge, as can fallen tree limbs. A fence tester is a very inexpensive device that will let you know quickly if the fence is still sufficiently charged. Also make sure solar chargers face direct sunlight to operate at full power. If you live in a frequently overcast climate, it’s better to use electricity to charge the fence. Proper grounding rods are also necessary for a good charge; you may need more than one, and they may need to run deep into the ground to create a sufficient electric shock.

6. Rotting posts or boards
Fences rely on the strength of their posts. Pressure-treated wood should be used when installing wooden fence posts, preferably with a diameter of at least four inches. The bottom of the post should be buried two to three feet into the ground for long-lasting support. Wooden posts and boards can both rot over time, so if your fence is older, check these frequently. Broken boards should be fixed immediately to prevent horses from rubbing against exposed nails.

7. Inadequate fence height
The top of any fence should be at least as high as the withers as the tallest horse in the field, while the bottom should be no more than 1 foot off the ground. Three to five boards or electric strands work best.

Many experts recommend against using electric fencing for the perimeter of a farm, since it is a bit flimsier and easier to escape. However, it is ideal for interior fencing, making rotational grazing zones within pastures, and for docile horses that respect it. Many do not recommend electric fencing for foals. Stallions require stouter fencing as well, with more than just electricity holding them in.

One of the safest and sturdiest horse fencing options is tightly woven wire (square, diamond, et cetera). Always use a "sight board" made of vinyl or wood along the top to remind the horse that the fence is there, as wire can be hard to see.

Many fencing options exist that are specifically manufactured to be both safe and strong when used to contain horses, such as PVC rail, flexible board and steel pipe. What you decide to use ultimately depends on your budget and personal tastes.

Further Reading
Pasture Maintenance
Troubleshooting Electric Fences

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Checking the Vitals: Abdominal Sounds

horsetackplus — Mon, 02 Aug 2010 23:27:05 +0000

Checking the Vitals: Abdominal Sounds

by: Doug Byars, DVM, Dipl. ACVIM
July 23 2010, Article # 16707

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Unlike heart and respiratory rates, abdominal sounds do not punch a specific time clock for generating "gut sounds." The rhythmic peristaltic churning of food mixed with fluids within the gut varies in slower waves depending on meal time, the meal itself, and the level of activity. You don’t actually "time" bowel sounds, but you do want to know if they are present.

Anatomy of the Gut

Veterinarians often joke that the abdomen of the horse was designed by a committee: it is complex and the obvious source of our leading killer, colic, which literally means pain with an abdominal origin. The horse has a unique abdominal anatomy, with the gut being within a space also shared by the liver, kidneys, and spleen. The reproductive organs also are present in females, with pregnancy being almost like the ever-enlarging living tumor. In males, the reproductive organs originate within the abdomen, then descend.

If we follow an oat kernel from the time of ingestion to digestion, it is quite a trip with strategic digestive processes. Anatomically, after the esophagus empties into the stomach, food and water begin transport through the abdominal viscera. The stomach is relatively small (2-4 gallons) and empties into the small intestine. Compare that to the 40-50-gallon vat called the rumen in the cow. If that oat kernel runs into a problem in the stomach of a cow it can be churned, fermented, and regurgitated for more chewing (cud). The horse is a species that does not regurgitate or vomit, thus the kernel is either trapped there or slowly exits into the duodenum, travels on to the jejunum and then the ileum, a trip of about 70 feet in length for the cumulative small intestine.

The small intestine ends with the muscular ileum that empties into the large colon and cecum, collectively called the "hindgut." Foals become hindgut fermenters at about three to four months of age. The cecum in the horse serves as a blind but large fermentation sac located on the right side of the abdomen. The large colon also originates there at the junction of the ileo-cecal-colic valve, a favorite site for tapeworms. The cecum and colon are significant fermentation processing plants, with the large colon starting on the right, circling forward toward the diaphragm then going along on the left, folding upward and back on itself, before again going forward then passing back over to the right side to end with the junction to the small colon.

The large colon is a major fluid resorption area and the small colon is where the fecal balls are formed. The large colon is about 35 feet long with a large diameter, and it is followed by the small colon and rectum, which make up about 12 feet in length. Obviously, the journey for that oat kernel was significant–it traveled more than 150 feet in a few hours or less–and is completed out the rectum and anus usually as a digested hull of the original oat kernel.

Listening to Your Horse’s Abdominal Sounds

Having an appreciation for the anatomy of the bowels gives the veterinarian an approach to detecting the location of a problem during the physical examination. Listening to both sides of the abdomen both high and low can be done by placing your ear against the abdomen, but this is not nearly as precise or safe as using a stethoscope. The sounds to be heard are a mixture of gurgling, gaslike growls, fluid as tinkling sounds, and occasionally "roars" as grumbles in the normal horse (similar to us apologizing to our companions for that occasional loud abdominal sonic storm). These would be normal sounds that the veterinarian refers to as either peristaltic or "borborigmus," and they reflect normal bowel activity.

In most cases silence is the signal of something abnormal. Since no special time clock is within the abdomen for sounds, it means listening to both sides of the abdomen for at least a minute each. Hearing the presence of bowel sounds should reassure you that things are still moving along as expected. Silence might sometimes be a sign of excessive gas or an impending diarrhea. Faint tinkling sounds might signify infection or a significant colic lesion. Searching for sounds or the lack thereof is important and your veterinarian will appreciate as much information as you can obtain from observing your horse and listening to his abdomen whenever the clinical signs are subtle.

When indicators of abdominal discomfort are not subtle or they are obvious: sweating, rolling horse that you can’t keep up … call the veterinarian immediately. You don’t need to concern yourself with listening for bowel sounds when the horse is reacting so violently. Sick horses with intestinal compromise should always be examined by a veterinarian, since even subtle problems can become life-threatening. The veterinarian can provide a more complete examination process, including passing a stomach tube and/or performing a rectal exam. The veterinarian might also use ancillary diagnostics such as ultrasound evaluation, and he or she might obtain laboratory samples, usually consisting of blood work and rarely an abdominal fluid tap.

Owners become guardians of their horses by paying attention to problems their horses might present. Not eating, slow eating, excessive gas production, changes in the character of the feces, weight loss, or chronic colic are signs needing interpretation. The stethoscope allows the listener a cursory appreciation of abdominal abnormalities, as he or she notes changes that can be heard, or not heard. The additional "vitals" information relayed to your veterinarian will be the temperature and the heart and respiratory rates, along with an evaluation of the mucous membranes. A quick appreciation of the vital signs with abdominal sounds is usually a window providing effective communications for both you and your veterinarian regarding a horse’s immediate health status.

Reprinted with the permission of the Kentucky Horse Council.

Jumping the Senior Horse

horsetackplus — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 01:56:45 +0000

Jumping the Senior Horse

Is it safe to continue jumping an older horse?

Q: My daughter has fallen in love with one of the horses at her lesson barn. She does wonderful with him and he is great with her. We are thinking about leasing him with the option to purchase him at the end of one year. He’s been successful on the hunter/jumper circuit, which is what my daughter is working towards. However, we’re concerned about his age. Initially, the trainer had told us he was 15, but when he was vet checked, the vet looked at his lip tattoo and said he is 20. He’s still strong and healthy, but he does get Bute for occasional joint pain. Is it okay to continue jumping a 20-year-old horse? We don’t want to cause him to go lame, and if need be we would just trail ride and enter him in flat classes.

A: It is absolutely fine to jump a 20-year-old horse as long as he remains a sound and willing mount. Older horses are perfect mounts for budding riders and shouldn’t be shunned because of age. The most obvious aspect to consider when dealing with older yet still active horses is degenerative joint disease. Realizing that osteoarthritis is present in all older horses and will worsen with time will help keep you realistic about future goals with this mount but maintaining your horse’s active lifestyle can aid in keeping those joints supple. Consider adding a glucosamine/chondroitin joint supplement to help keep your horse’s joints as lubricated as possible. There is a plethora of choices out there when it comes to choosing joint supplements, as they range from oral additives to injections. Consult your vet on what’s best for your situation. An occasional nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) such as phenlybutazone (bute) or Equioxx (firocoxib) for a challenging workout is ok but when your mount starts requiring more days with NSAIDs than without, it’s time to start decreasing his workload.

Another health aspect to keep in mind is your horse’s weight. Annual dental check-ups to file any sharp points or uneven wear will help ensure your horse’s teeth are in the best shape they can be and annual vet visits will allow your vet to assess musculoskeletal conditioning, aches and pains, and overall general health.

Most of all, listen to your horse. His attitude will tell you lots of things. If you notice subtle changes in his behavior during a workout or he becomes sour, he’s telling you things hurt. Keep cognizant of his age and do plenty of warm up exercises to limber him up before asking him to perform at a higher level. With proper care and nutrition, this mount may give many more years of reliable riding for your daughter.

–Anna O’Brien, DVM